The best face hair removal methods (and which to avoid)

Gentle options: threading, dermaplaning and face-safe creams

These three methods remove hair without the sustained heat or pulling force that irritates reactive skin. They're the right starting point for most people.

Threading

Threading uses a twisted cotton thread to lift and snap hairs from the follicle in a swift rolling motion. It's been used for brow and facial shaping across South Asia and the Middle East for centuries, and for good reason: no chemicals, no heat, no adhesive — just the thread. Results last two to four weeks. It stings slightly as hair is removed, but the sensation is brief and no skin cells are lifted, so there's no raw patch afterwards.

Threading is precise enough for small areas like the upper lip, chin and brow line. It doesn't work as well on very short or very fine peach-fuzz hair, because there's little for the thread to grip.

Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning uses a sterile, single-use scalpel held at a 45-degree angle to shave away both fine vellus hair (peach fuzz) and the top layer of dead skin cells at the same time. Done correctly — meaning with proper technique and a blade designed for the purpose — it leaves the face smooth and noticeably brighter for two to four weeks. Skin feels immediately soft because the physical barrier of dead skin has been removed, making it easier for serums and moisturisers to absorb.

It's worth being precise about one persistent myth: dermaplaning does not cause hair to grow back thicker or darker. Vellus hair is genetically fine; cutting it at the surface doesn't change the follicle below. The blunted tip of a regrown hair may initially feel slightly stubbly, but within a week or two it tapers and softens again.

Professional dermaplaning uses clinical-grade tools; at-home dermaplaning blades are widely available and gentler, making them suitable for careful personal use on the cheeks and forehead. Avoid active breakouts and inflamed skin.

Depilatory creams formulated for the face

Depilatory creams dissolve the protein structure of the hair shaft so it can be wiped away. They work in minutes and remove hair cleanly to skin level. The critical word here is formulated for the face: face-specific depilatories use lower concentrations of the active ingredient (usually thioglycolate) and gentler conditioners than body versions, because facial skin reacts far more quickly. Results last roughly the same as shaving — several days to about a week — because the follicle and root are untouched.

Always patch-test on a small area of the chin or jaw for 24 hours before applying to the full face. Even face-safe formulas can cause redness if left on too long or if your skin is already sensitised. See the section on what to avoid for why you should never use a body depilatory on your face.

Longer-lasting methods: waxing and IPL

Facial waxing

Waxing pulls hair from the root and gives three to six weeks of smooth skin before regrowth. For the face, strip wax and hard wax are both used; many therapists prefer hard wax for smaller facial areas because it adheres more to the hair than the skin, making it gentler on finer skin. The upper lip, chin and brow areas are the most commonly waxed zones.

Post-waxing redness and minor swelling usually settle within a few hours. Avoid waxing over active breakouts, sunburned skin, or areas where you're using retinoids or exfoliating acids — these treatments thin the skin and dramatically increase the chance of a lift or tear.

IPL for the face

Intense pulsed light (IPL) targets the pigment in dark hair to damage the follicle and reduce regrowth over a course of treatments. For the face it can deliver a meaningful reduction in dark, coarse hair — particularly on the upper lip, chin or sideburns. Most at-home IPL devices have a precision attachment specifically for facial use.

IPL is not effective on very light, blonde, red, grey or white hair because those colours lack the melanin the device needs to target. It also requires more care on medium-to-deeper skin tones — an area where professional laser with the correct wavelength for your tone is often a safer choice. If you have sensitive skin, start at the lowest intensity setting and allow your skin extra time to recover between sessions. See our full guide to hair removal by method and the comparison between at-home and professional options if you're deciding which route to take.

What to avoid on your face — and why

Body depilatory creams

Body depilatories are formulated for thicker skin on the legs, underarms or bikini area and contain higher concentrations of the dissolving agent. Applying them to the face, even briefly, risks a chemical burn — redness, blistering and skin peeling. The tube will often carry a warning against facial use; trust it.

Body razors used incorrectly

A fresh, clean razor used with proper technique won't damage facial skin — that's essentially what dermaplaning is. The risk with standard body razors is multiple-blade drag, shaving dry, or pressing too firmly on the delicate skin of the upper lip or cheeks, all of which increase the chance of nicks, razor burn and irritation. If you shave the face, use a single-blade razor or a razor designed for facial use, always with a lubricating layer.

Harsh scrubs and exfoliators on freshly treated skin

After any hair removal — waxing, threading, dermaplaning, depilatory creams — the skin is temporarily more vulnerable. Using a physical scrub, a chemical exfoliant (AHA/BHA), or a retinoid on the same day compounds the trauma and frequently causes redness, stinging or a broken skin barrier. Wait at least 24–48 hours before returning to an exfoliating routine.

Epilators on facial skin

Epilators grip multiple hairs simultaneously and pull them from the root at speed. On legs this is manageable; on the thin, folded skin near the lip or chin the same pulling motion is far more likely to cause bruising, broken capillaries or ingrown hairs. Threading achieves a similar root-removal result with far less trauma to the surrounding skin.

Managing irritation and breakouts after facial hair removal

Any method that disturbs the skin's surface — even briefly — creates an opportunity for bacteria to enter an open follicle, which is how post-treatment breakouts happen. Reducing this risk is largely a matter of keeping the area clean, avoiding occlusive products immediately after, and not touching the treated skin.

• Immediately after: apply a gentle, fragrance-free soothing product — an aloe gel or a simple moisturiser with no active ingredients. Avoid foundations, heavy creams or oils for a few hours.
• Next 24 hours: skip active skincare (retinoids, vitamin C, AHAs, BHAs). Let the skin settle.
• Sun protection: freshly treated skin is more sensitive to UV. SPF 30 or higher is particularly important after waxing, dermaplaning, and IPL.
• Persistent breakouts: if you regularly break out after waxing or threading, switching to dermaplaning or a gentle depilatory may help, since those methods don't open the follicle or leave it briefly exposed in the same way.

If you have sensitive or reactive skin, patch testing and gradual introduction of any new method is always the safest path.

Choosing by skin type and concern

No single method is best for every skin type. Here's a practical starting point:

• Dry or sensitive skin: dermaplaning or threading — neither involves chemicals or heat. Use a fragrance-free moisturiser afterwards.
• Oily or acne-prone skin: threading is the safest because it removes nothing from the skin surface. Avoid heavy creams post-treatment and steer clear of waxing during an active breakout phase.
• Deeper skin tones: threading and face-safe depilatories are reliably safe. IPL and laser carry higher risk of pigment change when not matched to the correct wavelength; consult a professional experienced with your skin tone before proceeding. See our guide on sensitive and reactive skin care.
• Fine, light vellus hair: dermaplaning is specifically designed for this; threading and IPL have little to grip or target on this hair type.
• Coarse dark hair on upper lip or chin: IPL or professional laser will give the longest-lasting reduction; threading gives the cleanest shorter-term result. More detail on the upper lip specifically.